Brasov: The Wild Frontier (article from The Sydney Morning Herald)

Last Updated on martie 21, 2014

Last summer, The Sydney Morning Herald did a description of Brasov in the article “The Other Europe” – Brasov: THE WILD FRONTIER:

You could call Transylvania Europe’s last frontier. Wolves still lurk in the dark forests, but they’re a minor danger compared with the more fearsome threats that once stalked these lands.

Fierce nomadic tribes, such as the Cumans and the dreaded Mongols, repeatedly wrought havoc until, in the 13th century, the king of Hungary brought in German settlers to defend the area. The most important task – defence of the Carpathian passes – fell to the Teutonic Knights.

Like their counterparts, the Knights Templar, the Teutonic Knights made their reputation fighting in the Holy Land, but proved just as adept at bloodletting closer to home, also doing tours of duty at Danzig and Riga. They established a series of seven towns built around fortified churches that provided sanctuary in case of attack.

The most magnificent was called Kronstadt (Crown City), although it’s known today by its Romanian name of Brasov.

Even today, Brasov is a long way from anywhere. We journeyed a day to reach it, travelling through the bleak landscapes of southern Romania – roads pitted with potholes the size of small lakes, and lined with fetid mounds of stinking rubbish; wild dogs roaming in packs; people scraping a living trying to sell individual rolls of toilet paper to motorists – before rising into the thickly forested mountains. (full article on smh.com.au)

Nothing in our journey prepared us for the sight of Brasov, an elegant European city in what felt like the middle of nowhere.

brasov-australia

The cobblestone streets were lined with well-groomed townhouses immaculately painted in pastel shades; the welcoming central square was lined with bustling outdoor eateries.

Just as it was eight centuries ago, Brasov remains an outpost in the wilderness, offering weary travellers the delights of civilisation; only these days, they include satellite TV and sushi.

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